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Natural Fibres

Natural Fibres

NATURAL VS SYNTHETIC FIBRES

 

The fabrics used to produce clothing begin as fibres - natural fibres, semi-synthetic fibres, or synthetic fibres.

Natural fibres are made from natural, plant- or animal-based materials (e.g. cotton, wool, silk, hemp, linen, cashmere).

Semi-synthetic fibres (e.g. viscose/rayon, modal, lyocell) have a natural source (usually wood or another cellulosic source such as bamboo), but require chemical processing to produce the fibre. The cellulose polymers comprising these fibres are produced during a long production process involving caustic chemicals. For this reason, semi-synthetic fibres are also termed regenerated fibres.

Synthetic fibres (e.g. polyester, fleece, acrylic, acetate, nylon, spandex/lycra/elastane) are derived from petroleum through an industrial process that essentially creates plastic fibres.

The distinctions between natural and synthetic fibres are relevant in terms of the environmental impacts they pose. Importantly, synthetic fibres release thousands of microplastics when washed that make their way into waterways and cause ‘invisible’ ocean pollution.

The Environmental Case for Natural Fibres Over Synthetics

There are a number of reasons as to why natural (and semi-synthetic) fibres are desirable from an ecological point over synthetic fibres. Firstly, natural fibres are derived from renewable resources whilst synthetic fibres are derived from non-renewable fossil fuels. Also, unlike natural fibres that degrade readily over short periods of time (weeks to years), synthetic fibres pollute the natural environment in the form of ‘micro-plastics’ and breakdown over much longer periods (decades to centuries)
It may take up to 200 years for polyester to biodegrade  whilst cotton, for instance, is fully biodegradable and will breakdown within months.
The total impact of polyester used in the textile industry
It is estimated that 60% of clothing on the planet is made from polyester – a plastic derived from non-renewable fossil fuels. Indeed, some clothing is even made from plastic that is recycled – such as from plastic bottles. Whilst this was seen originally as a radical means of tackling global plastic pollution, it turns out that every time apparel made from synthetic fibres is machine washed, it sheds thousands of microfibres (tiny, synthetic threads less than 1mm in size). These microfibres are not captured by washing machines or water treatment plants and end up in rivers, lakes and the ocean. In fact, plastic makes up the largest segment of all material that litters the marine environment – 60 to 80%. Additionally, about a third of this plastic material is derived from microfibres that are shed from synthetic fibres during its washing.

It is of great concern that human activity can have such a detrimental impact on the marine environment. This point was recently highlighted in research finding extraordinary levels of industrial pollution in the world’s deepest ocean trenches – regions of the planet that are over 10 kilometres deep and that have been largely unexplored.

The problem of ocean plastic pollution is so great, that....

Unfortunately, the production of polyester-based clothing has grown exponentially since its invention in the 1940s. Global polyester demand exceeded that of cotton in 2002 and its demand is currently the highest growing of all textile fabrics. Sadly, microfiber pollution in the oceans has followed in step with the production levels of synthetic fibre.

Global production of polyester...

Moreover, 80% of the polyester that is produced annually..

The problem is not limited to ocean pollution per se. Ingested by marine animals, microplastics travel up the food chain and are eventually consumed by humans when consuming seafood.

For all the reasons discussed above, we don’t use polyester or other synthetic fibres in the garments we offer.

Information Sources:

 

Material Systems Laboratory (2015) Sustainable apparel materials. An overview of what we know and what could be done about the impact of four major apparel materials: Cotton, Polyester, Leather and Rubber.

International Union for Conservation of Nature and Natural Resources (2017) Primary Microplastics in the Oceans: a Global Evaluation of Sources.

Ellen Macarthur Foundation (2016) The New Plastics Economy – Rethinking the Future of Plastics.

Greenpeace Research Laboratories (2016) Plastics in Seafood.

Greenpeace (2016) Timeout for Fast Fashion.